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Firstly I should point out that I'm not religious in the slightest - I don't find God's compatible with science much despite what some will try and tell you. I was raised going to Sunday school in a protestant church but I was rather disillusioned by the age of 13 or so. So any bias in what I'm about to say probably comes from a combination of the above two factors but I don't think they're the driving force for my views.
The one thing that really impressed me in Rome (even more so than the Colosseum) was St Peter's Basilica and the square outside it. However upon wandering around inside I was struck by the sheer excess and self-indulgence of the place; gold everywhere, priceless artworks, and statues of saints and popes of yesteryear.
Surely if any God was truly loving, all these testaments to him would be unnecessary. The pope is God's representative on earth yeah? Then why do they get to immortalise themself for centuries to come as a statue - does this not contradict one of those commandments Moses hauled down the hill? Morally apt actions would surely give you much more air miles to St Peter's pearly gates than decking out a church to look nice. If God was taken in by all this he really would be quite a superficial character indeed - perhaps the next Messiah will be found decked out in Jack Wills.
I'd never before really understood why Protestantism had begun, but touring the heart of the Catholic world kind of hit the message home. Surely people just got fed up with this extravagance and wanted to return to the core messages of their God? I'd bet if we counted up all the money in that place we could write off a fair bit of world debt. I have no doubt that the church has done a lot (understatement of the year so far) to help impoverished people, but it seems a bit hypocritical to lavish your own patch and yet preach charity. Before people lynch me, I know this is not a trait prevalent throughout Catholicism (as a trivial example Kaka gives a large proportion of his wages to charity I believe?) I just feel the leading by example has gone astray slightly.
Well, I've finally come down from my Cloud IX having been boosted there by a lovely break for two in Rome. I'll try and break anything worth telling into a few separate posts. Don't want you being overwhelmed or anything. I did wonder how to do this, considering a day-by-day account, however I feel a random smorgasbord of events and opinions will more accurately convey the hectic nature of Rome. This post will try and keep the culture at its centre somewhere, but I'm sure to stray.
First impressions count, no matter how much of it you've already read about or seen on tv. My first impression? Jesus these Italian drivers are mental. I've been in Italy before but never anywhere as busy or traffic-dense as Rome! There seems no logic in parking, with cars regularly being blocked in, or parking on pedestrian crossings/any bit of road that isn't considered a direct line of transit. But the real terror lies in crossing the road - the green cross code doesn't just go out of the window, it continues up up and away into the nether stratospheres. You've got to watch for scooters and cars turning across your path ignoring the lights. There are 2 prevalent strategies we found - identify a local and put your life in their hands as you follow them across, but be prepared to run - or alternatively gamble and hope cars swerve around you. It really is exhilarating after you get used to it and get over your initial trepidation.
My impressions did however improve upon a superb meal in a local pizzeria and a midnight stroll around St Peter's square with the Basilica lit up impressively - more about the Basilica in a future post. The food everywhere was fantastic - pizza toppings I'd never even considered (broccoli and mozzarella was a particular highlight!) pizzas without tomato, pizzas without cheese, pasta kept simple (and rather al dente!) So in this Italian cuisine delight where did we celebrate Anna's 21st birthday? with a steak of course! I did however fall into the trap of a continental 'medium' steak - it was nice until I got to the middle of my fillet where a carnivore's delight awaited. It could have come straight off the cow itself and bypassed the grill. However I delighted in slipping it down the gullet, and was rather surprised at how nice it was.
Much of this fine cuisine was washed down with a glass or two of delicious vino. However on the majority of nights this was the end of the drinking - if you're going to Rome in midwinter I can not recommend anywhere that'll be open for a post-dinner drink later than 10.30. Perhaps someone better acquainted than me can inform me where everyone goes in the city centre?On a side note, I trialled a holiday beard - a solid month of finely groomed chin growth (sadly large patches of skin adjacent to this let me down) But it is now the end of Manuary, and the razor blades will be attacking into it tomorrow morning. It was nice while it lasted but time to refresh and improve - to those beard-admirers amongst you it is for the long term prosperity, do not fear, it shall return, just maybe not until next Manuary.
