First impressions count, no matter how much of it you've already read about or seen on tv. My first impression? Jesus these Italian drivers are mental. I've been in Italy before but never anywhere as busy or traffic-dense as Rome! There seems no logic in parking, with cars regularly being blocked in, or parking on pedestrian crossings/any bit of road that isn't considered a direct line of transit. But the real terror lies in crossing the road - the green cross code doesn't just go out of the window, it continues up up and away into the nether stratospheres. You've got to watch for scooters and cars turning across your path ignoring the lights. There are 2 prevalent strategies we found - identify a local and put your life in their hands as you follow them across, but be prepared to run - or alternatively gamble and hope cars swerve around you. It really is exhilarating after you get used to it and get over your initial trepidation.
My impressions did however improve upon a superb meal in a local pizzeria and a midnight stroll around St Peter's square with the Basilica lit up impressively - more about the Basilica in a future post. The food everywhere was fantastic - pizza toppings I'd never even considered (broccoli and mozzarella was a particular highlight!) pizzas without tomato, pizzas without cheese, pasta kept simple (and rather al dente!) So in this Italian cuisine delight where did we celebrate Anna's 21st birthday? with a steak of course! I did however fall into the trap of a continental 'medium' steak - it was nice until I got to the middle of my fillet where a carnivore's delight awaited. It could have come straight off the cow itself and bypassed the grill. However I delighted in slipping it down the gullet, and was rather surprised at how nice it was.
Much of this fine cuisine was washed down with a glass or two of delicious vino. However on the majority of nights this was the end of the drinking - if you're going to Rome in midwinter I can not recommend anywhere that'll be open for a post-dinner drink later than 10.30. Perhaps someone better acquainted than me can inform me where everyone goes in the city centre?
On a side note, I trialled a holiday beard - a solid month of finely groomed chin growth (sadly large patches of skin adjacent to this let me down) But it is now the end of Manuary, and the razor blades will be attacking into it tomorrow morning. It was nice while it lasted but time to refresh and improve - to those beard-admirers amongst you it is for the long term prosperity, do not fear, it shall return, just maybe not until next Manuary.
